Here’s what I found out about books as an American living in Mexico. In the early years, when I had to bring back all my English reading material, I learned that books are cheap but heavy. I used to stuff as many as possible into my carry-on. Nowadays, I’m picky about books I bring back since luggage requirements are much more limited. But we are blessed with a very good English lending library in Patzcuaro (30 minute drive )that is well stocked!
You're very lucky re the lending library!! PM was so small back in the day. And even Cancun had nothing, which was a shock. But then, QRoo has only been a state since 1974. And before we moved to MX every friend I met there always asked me to bring back books-so I did in my suitcase. Thus, an idea was born. Merida has a very good English language library, MEL--we used to buy books for them when we'd do our annual new book purchases and sell to them at bookseller discount. Always loved going to Merida anyway, b.c we'd also buy books from Dante Books (maybe you saw it when you were in Yucatan recently). Mostly Spanish books but a fine store w/ about 6 locales. Readers Unite! haha.
As I've mentioned in past posts, we sold a while back when we wanted to re-retire. We manned it ourselves, and the hours eventually got to us. It's going great. Even though the original location changed a couple years ago (the whole row of shops in front of the zocalo got sold to become (sigh) condos...But Caleb&Nicole found a great spot just around the corner, took our woodman's gorgeous cedar shelves with to new spot. It's next to the OXXO, and w/ an upstairs reading deck (weather permitting). On the stairs (and I'll have to post a photo-it is too cute and wonderful) they painted spines of books, and on the bottom rung, ta daaa! is "Where the Sky is Born," my memoir, in that Maya Azul. I was blown away when I first saw it. How sweet. It's grown even more with them. And a real tourist/local magnet. They love books as much as I do.
Wow Jeanine! I loved this! Had me hooked with Anna and Felipe’s story (can’t wait to go back to the Feb post for more!). Loved the part about the programmer cataloging your books- before the ease of techology, apps Aleta we have today. I was in college late 80s and remember the clunky DOS and Fortran programming so I can only imagine the task of this and the subsequent stories of how you’re getting ALL these books to Mexico! Where there’s a will there’s a way! You know it!!
Aah Marlo, takes one to know one-- just different sides of the same coin, no? I chose books, you chose rooms, haha. But what an adventure (to use your title).
As you know I think I lived in Carmen de Playa for a while performing at several different resorts! I loved exploring and learning about the Mexican culture from the Yucatán peninsula! Thank you for sharing these stories, I sure wished I had them when I lived there.
Yes, Charlotte! You'd mentioned you lived in Playa del Carmen and loved it (and how could you not, right)? The Mexican-Maya culture is so historic, incredible, rich, vast, dramatic. I feel so lucky to have stumbled onto my love of it, b/c it seems writing topics are never ending! And I absolutely love doing the research b/c it seems I'm always amazed, about something. Thank you, or should I say 'mil gracias,' for coming along for the ride.
I love this backstory of your bookstore! I’ve been to Green Apple and never resist the temptation to buy something. Congrats on making your dream of opening a bookstore a reality, Jeanine!
Mil gracias, Daniel. It was something, believe me. Green Apple guys were so nice. They were the ones that said, "Get a dehumidifier!" Sounder advice was never given!! Somehow we found the last one in Cancun.
"He would later be exposed by Reed for having pilfered artifacts, jewelry, and jade after dredging the cenote at the site and sending the spoils back to Boston’s Peabody Museum —but that’s an upcoming post"
That's quite the mid-roll teaser, Jeanine. Consider my curiosity piqued early.
Also, what a fun and exciting tale about Reed and Felipe Carrillo Puerto.
What's funny to me about your efforts to find and mule books over the border is how my experience was the opposite in 2012. I took boxes of books to DTLA's famed "The Last Bookstore," where they offered me pennies for about six of my treasures, and then advised me that I could donate the rest if I didn't want them.
That's when I went full Kindle, and yes... I "donated" [read: surrendered] the rest of my collection.
Trading in books can be quite a challenge—if the store has mucho titles already on hand, they’ll usually decline. (Shelf space can be scarce). It’s tough trading bc you don’t want to offend customers but you gotta keep the lights on. In our early first year, since PM was so small and absolutely zero tourists, some nights we’d make only 60 USD. And promptly have dinner at one of the 4 restaurants to spread the wealth around. We few shop owners had each other’s backs. It was fun, kinda a club. Re Edward H Thompson— quite something. He still had descendants a decade ago when I was writing about him —heard from a great-grandson near Piste/ Chichen Itza. Edward H got around apparently. He was one of the early Chichen explorers though (pillagers??) I think Sylvanus Morley was more ethical.
A fascinating article and discussion, Jeanine! You and Paul really were pioneers. It's wonderful that all of your efforts--on the house and bookstore--eventually flourished.
Thanks Clarice. It did take effort. But we had time as we still needed to get organized $-wise so that we could make the great escape. So that made it fun, too.
Thank you, Paulette! Actually I think we were a bit naive and thunderstruck by this cool idea of having a bookstore in this teeny pueblo where barely a soul existed. It was for me like dropping out all over again—I was of that certain flower child age after all, Paul's a little older. And then when we realized there was no competition (of course we later found out why, haha) it was even more fun. So it took a few years for the world and our word of mouth campaign, and pasting flyers on poles in Playa del Carmen and Cancun and Isla Mujeres, and putting a sandwich board on the highway - BOOKS - (Puerto Morelos did not even have a road sign back then!) I mean, the Main hwy was a 2-lane narrow strip of asphalt all the way to Belize. Our 2km road off it to Pto Morelos was a bump above sascab-- a wide one lane. So, I think it was like being way down south in the jungle, kinda hiding out. Really fun.
Jeanine, I frequent books sales frequently and have been elbowed by many book dealers. I am so inspired by your story of how your passionate interest led you from book to book sales. What a great story!
Thanks Priya! Yes, those book dealers are in for the fight! Along with those wonderful biographies, I had real fear of no reading material! I think that too spearheaded the deal. I couldn’t imagine being retired with nothing to do and zero to read, as reading is my hobby. This way I had a fun job to do, an easy way of meeting people and lots to read! Overall it was a happy accident!!
I immediately went to Youtube to listen to La Peregrina, the beautiful love song written for the beautiful, journalist. Could have been you, Jeanine. Beautiful pilgrim with a soulful dream of bringing history and knowledge and joy through books. Loved this story, thank you.
It is a beautiful love song. And what a sad tale. I should have included the much more detailed post I wrote last February on Alma and Felipe. I think I’ll edit today’s post and place at the end. Thanks for your comments!!
Thanks Holly. I got the idea from one of my community college night school instructors who called we students, Mis almass libres. I just loved it! and then thought a little alliteration would be fun, too!!
I never knew the story of Alma Reed, now the book you mentioned is on my next to read list... some fascinating history there. It's also great to learn how much work went into opening Alma Libre Libros - I imagined it wasn't easy, but sounds like even more than I thought. Sorry you had to deal with the wily book dealer, but loved your account of the meeting - and the fact that you didn't let him or the likes of him deter you. Great read!
You’ll love the book, Emese. She tells Reed’s tale well. Abd glad you’re getting the inside track on how we pieced it all together (and that you saw the finished product on multiple occasions—gracias). I had to put in the book dealer— he/they were part of the process. But just wait till I get to the customs broker—talk about a piece of work.
The hard work of building up a library to self serve, never mind serve others, is quite a feat! Well done for taking that battle on... And thanks for the stories as always, I'm looking forward to the Pilfering Mr Thompson in the upcoming post ;)
All your hard work and "passion" aimed at opening a book store in Puerto Morelos really paid off! But what an experience figuring out how to make it all come together. You sure had the perfect opportunity to learn about Mexico, its iconic people, and the Maya in depth. Felipe and Alma, such a tragic love story about two extraordinary people. Those Merida cemetary gravesite memorials are so profound and deeply moving. And your bookstore, so cool and brought you so many wonderful encounters - always loved the name (still do).
And also Barbra, a big thanks to you re Felipe's headstone. Your photos are so amazing. I also posted on of your fabulous cemetery nighttime photos, they are so beautiful.
Very interesting backstory, Jeanine! During my time in Ajijic for almost a year, I thought an English-language bookstore would be a good idea because of the thousands of USA and Canadian citizens who flood the village every winter. It was a bad idea, partly because the local library had thousands of titles and a used bookstore/cafe offered hundreds more for practically nothing. Maybe "snowbirds" want to spend their money on other pleasures.
Ajiic's library system sounds like Merida's excellent MEL. It's been around for a couple decades now, and carries extensive inventory. We were friends w/ the head librarian there for years and would order English language books for her, and sell at our bookstore discount, so needless to say, we became fast friends. They host major events, even house tours, and have a nice inventory. My friend Juanita Stein, former editor of Yucatan Today, opened a mostly English language bookstore near the plaza but sadly, just as Covid hit. Between the Lines. She closed shop last year--but also Merida has excellent Dante Books, mostly Spanish. In QRoo, as I've written, there were only 7 bookshops in the STATE, which includes Cancun. And with the exception of one, they started after us but was predominantly Spanish in Playa del Carmen, the rest were not worthy of being named a store. If you have a chance to check Itchy Feet's latest interview w/me, it shows a nice photo of part of our stack/shelves. The store was/still is topnotch, if I do say so myself. RoughGuide in 2001 said we were the largest English language bookstore from CDMX to Guatemala. And now, with new owners, they've really flown. We laid the groundwork and they have taken off. It's written up everywhere. But starting it was no walk in the park, but both Paul and I are Type A, and we've always enjoyed a challenge. And believe me, there were challenges a-plenty! We did Buy-Sell-Trade so the locals could afford, and it was mostly used books, still is.
Wow, Jeanine -- This is great info about English language bookstores in Mexico. Sadly, the only English language bookstore in Guadalajara closed during the Covid pandemic.
Here’s what I found out about books as an American living in Mexico. In the early years, when I had to bring back all my English reading material, I learned that books are cheap but heavy. I used to stuff as many as possible into my carry-on. Nowadays, I’m picky about books I bring back since luggage requirements are much more limited. But we are blessed with a very good English lending library in Patzcuaro (30 minute drive )that is well stocked!
You're very lucky re the lending library!! PM was so small back in the day. And even Cancun had nothing, which was a shock. But then, QRoo has only been a state since 1974. And before we moved to MX every friend I met there always asked me to bring back books-so I did in my suitcase. Thus, an idea was born. Merida has a very good English language library, MEL--we used to buy books for them when we'd do our annual new book purchases and sell to them at bookseller discount. Always loved going to Merida anyway, b.c we'd also buy books from Dante Books (maybe you saw it when you were in Yucatan recently). Mostly Spanish books but a fine store w/ about 6 locales. Readers Unite! haha.
Didn't go to Dante Books this time, we were mostly in rural Yucatan. Someday, si Dios quiere, we'd love to stop by your bookstore!
As I've mentioned in past posts, we sold a while back when we wanted to re-retire. We manned it ourselves, and the hours eventually got to us. It's going great. Even though the original location changed a couple years ago (the whole row of shops in front of the zocalo got sold to become (sigh) condos...But Caleb&Nicole found a great spot just around the corner, took our woodman's gorgeous cedar shelves with to new spot. It's next to the OXXO, and w/ an upstairs reading deck (weather permitting). On the stairs (and I'll have to post a photo-it is too cute and wonderful) they painted spines of books, and on the bottom rung, ta daaa! is "Where the Sky is Born," my memoir, in that Maya Azul. I was blown away when I first saw it. How sweet. It's grown even more with them. And a real tourist/local magnet. They love books as much as I do.
Oops, don't know how I missed that. Glad you found a fellow book lover to take it over. Saludos!
They're really great people.
A trip to Mexico City and our 2nd hand book stores could be a better option! TONS here.
Yes, I’ve heard!!
I will remember that next time I'm in the metropolis!
Thanks to you, I know the story of Alma Reed, good storytelling mixed with some humour, and a strong love for books and Mexico. Thanks, Jeanine.
Thank you, Tinashe! The Alma Reed and Felipe Carrillo Puerto story is near Greek tragedy in telling.
Wow Jeanine! I loved this! Had me hooked with Anna and Felipe’s story (can’t wait to go back to the Feb post for more!). Loved the part about the programmer cataloging your books- before the ease of techology, apps Aleta we have today. I was in college late 80s and remember the clunky DOS and Fortran programming so I can only imagine the task of this and the subsequent stories of how you’re getting ALL these books to Mexico! Where there’s a will there’s a way! You know it!!
Aah Marlo, takes one to know one-- just different sides of the same coin, no? I chose books, you chose rooms, haha. But what an adventure (to use your title).
🎉😂💜 what an adventure!
As you know I think I lived in Carmen de Playa for a while performing at several different resorts! I loved exploring and learning about the Mexican culture from the Yucatán peninsula! Thank you for sharing these stories, I sure wished I had them when I lived there.
Yes, Charlotte! You'd mentioned you lived in Playa del Carmen and loved it (and how could you not, right)? The Mexican-Maya culture is so historic, incredible, rich, vast, dramatic. I feel so lucky to have stumbled onto my love of it, b/c it seems writing topics are never ending! And I absolutely love doing the research b/c it seems I'm always amazed, about something. Thank you, or should I say 'mil gracias,' for coming along for the ride.
I love this backstory of your bookstore! I’ve been to Green Apple and never resist the temptation to buy something. Congrats on making your dream of opening a bookstore a reality, Jeanine!
Mil gracias, Daniel. It was something, believe me. Green Apple guys were so nice. They were the ones that said, "Get a dehumidifier!" Sounder advice was never given!! Somehow we found the last one in Cancun.
"He would later be exposed by Reed for having pilfered artifacts, jewelry, and jade after dredging the cenote at the site and sending the spoils back to Boston’s Peabody Museum —but that’s an upcoming post"
That's quite the mid-roll teaser, Jeanine. Consider my curiosity piqued early.
Also, what a fun and exciting tale about Reed and Felipe Carrillo Puerto.
What's funny to me about your efforts to find and mule books over the border is how my experience was the opposite in 2012. I took boxes of books to DTLA's famed "The Last Bookstore," where they offered me pennies for about six of my treasures, and then advised me that I could donate the rest if I didn't want them.
That's when I went full Kindle, and yes... I "donated" [read: surrendered] the rest of my collection.
Trading in books can be quite a challenge—if the store has mucho titles already on hand, they’ll usually decline. (Shelf space can be scarce). It’s tough trading bc you don’t want to offend customers but you gotta keep the lights on. In our early first year, since PM was so small and absolutely zero tourists, some nights we’d make only 60 USD. And promptly have dinner at one of the 4 restaurants to spread the wealth around. We few shop owners had each other’s backs. It was fun, kinda a club. Re Edward H Thompson— quite something. He still had descendants a decade ago when I was writing about him —heard from a great-grandson near Piste/ Chichen Itza. Edward H got around apparently. He was one of the early Chichen explorers though (pillagers??) I think Sylvanus Morley was more ethical.
A fascinating article and discussion, Jeanine! You and Paul really were pioneers. It's wonderful that all of your efforts--on the house and bookstore--eventually flourished.
Thanks Clarice. It did take effort. But we had time as we still needed to get organized $-wise so that we could make the great escape. So that made it fun, too.
Thanks, Jeanine for another wonderful exploration of Mexico and your personal journey. You and Paul are very courageous!
Thank you, Paulette! Actually I think we were a bit naive and thunderstruck by this cool idea of having a bookstore in this teeny pueblo where barely a soul existed. It was for me like dropping out all over again—I was of that certain flower child age after all, Paul's a little older. And then when we realized there was no competition (of course we later found out why, haha) it was even more fun. So it took a few years for the world and our word of mouth campaign, and pasting flyers on poles in Playa del Carmen and Cancun and Isla Mujeres, and putting a sandwich board on the highway - BOOKS - (Puerto Morelos did not even have a road sign back then!) I mean, the Main hwy was a 2-lane narrow strip of asphalt all the way to Belize. Our 2km road off it to Pto Morelos was a bump above sascab-- a wide one lane. So, I think it was like being way down south in the jungle, kinda hiding out. Really fun.
Jeanine, I frequent books sales frequently and have been elbowed by many book dealers. I am so inspired by your story of how your passionate interest led you from book to book sales. What a great story!
Thanks Priya! Yes, those book dealers are in for the fight! Along with those wonderful biographies, I had real fear of no reading material! I think that too spearheaded the deal. I couldn’t imagine being retired with nothing to do and zero to read, as reading is my hobby. This way I had a fun job to do, an easy way of meeting people and lots to read! Overall it was a happy accident!!
One thing led to another is what the greatest adventures are made of!
I immediately went to Youtube to listen to La Peregrina, the beautiful love song written for the beautiful, journalist. Could have been you, Jeanine. Beautiful pilgrim with a soulful dream of bringing history and knowledge and joy through books. Loved this story, thank you.
It is a beautiful love song. And what a sad tale. I should have included the much more detailed post I wrote last February on Alma and Felipe. I think I’ll edit today’s post and place at the end. Thanks for your comments!!
Yes I remember that post. The story is really good. His execution! The whole thing. You couldn't make this stuff up.
Alma Libre Libros! Love the name so much.
Thanks Holly. I got the idea from one of my community college night school instructors who called we students, Mis almass libres. I just loved it! and then thought a little alliteration would be fun, too!!
I never knew the story of Alma Reed, now the book you mentioned is on my next to read list... some fascinating history there. It's also great to learn how much work went into opening Alma Libre Libros - I imagined it wasn't easy, but sounds like even more than I thought. Sorry you had to deal with the wily book dealer, but loved your account of the meeting - and the fact that you didn't let him or the likes of him deter you. Great read!
You’ll love the book, Emese. She tells Reed’s tale well. Abd glad you’re getting the inside track on how we pieced it all together (and that you saw the finished product on multiple occasions—gracias). I had to put in the book dealer— he/they were part of the process. But just wait till I get to the customs broker—talk about a piece of work.
Love this story!
Alma Reed. It truly is something!!!
The hard work of building up a library to self serve, never mind serve others, is quite a feat! Well done for taking that battle on... And thanks for the stories as always, I'm looking forward to the Pilfering Mr Thompson in the upcoming post ;)
All your hard work and "passion" aimed at opening a book store in Puerto Morelos really paid off! But what an experience figuring out how to make it all come together. You sure had the perfect opportunity to learn about Mexico, its iconic people, and the Maya in depth. Felipe and Alma, such a tragic love story about two extraordinary people. Those Merida cemetary gravesite memorials are so profound and deeply moving. And your bookstore, so cool and brought you so many wonderful encounters - always loved the name (still do).
And also Barbra, a big thanks to you re Felipe's headstone. Your photos are so amazing. I also posted on of your fabulous cemetery nighttime photos, they are so beautiful.
Very interesting backstory, Jeanine! During my time in Ajijic for almost a year, I thought an English-language bookstore would be a good idea because of the thousands of USA and Canadian citizens who flood the village every winter. It was a bad idea, partly because the local library had thousands of titles and a used bookstore/cafe offered hundreds more for practically nothing. Maybe "snowbirds" want to spend their money on other pleasures.
Ajiic's library system sounds like Merida's excellent MEL. It's been around for a couple decades now, and carries extensive inventory. We were friends w/ the head librarian there for years and would order English language books for her, and sell at our bookstore discount, so needless to say, we became fast friends. They host major events, even house tours, and have a nice inventory. My friend Juanita Stein, former editor of Yucatan Today, opened a mostly English language bookstore near the plaza but sadly, just as Covid hit. Between the Lines. She closed shop last year--but also Merida has excellent Dante Books, mostly Spanish. In QRoo, as I've written, there were only 7 bookshops in the STATE, which includes Cancun. And with the exception of one, they started after us but was predominantly Spanish in Playa del Carmen, the rest were not worthy of being named a store. If you have a chance to check Itchy Feet's latest interview w/me, it shows a nice photo of part of our stack/shelves. The store was/still is topnotch, if I do say so myself. RoughGuide in 2001 said we were the largest English language bookstore from CDMX to Guatemala. And now, with new owners, they've really flown. We laid the groundwork and they have taken off. It's written up everywhere. But starting it was no walk in the park, but both Paul and I are Type A, and we've always enjoyed a challenge. And believe me, there were challenges a-plenty! We did Buy-Sell-Trade so the locals could afford, and it was mostly used books, still is.
Wow, Jeanine -- This is great info about English language bookstores in Mexico. Sadly, the only English language bookstore in Guadalajara closed during the Covid pandemic.
Oh that is sad, like what happened to Between the Lines in Merida, though she hung on for a few yrs after.