Fascinating. I did not know any of this history before, and your writing is wonderful in its details. I'm particularly interested in the stucco frescos that appear to be Greek or Indian--even in a lotus position! Does anyone understand yet how these developed out of the unique culture of Ek Balam?
In particular, I had never heard of the 1847 Caste War of Yucatán, which killed 250,000. It struck me, though, that at the same time on the other side of the world, another subjugated people-the Irish--were suffering through a famine ((1845-1852) that killed one million people from starvation and disease and forced another million people to emigrate.
You also write that "A three century struggle begun in 1543 when Montejo’s nephew subjugated those early Maya did not truly end until 1915 with the Mexican Revolution."
The English first invaded Ireland in 1169, but the crown asserted full control of the country in 1541. Similar to the Maya, the Irish tried numerous times to rebel, and thousands lost their lives as a result. And then the Easter Rising occurred in April 1916. Although it was brutally crushed within a week, it led to the War of Independence (1919-1921) and--finally--to independence on December 26, 1921.
All of which are some interesting parallels that I never knew before!
The struggle of the Irish, Clarice (the troubles). Sigh. I knew it all lasted long, but not that long. Paul is half Irish and he occasionally comes up with his Irish granny’s phrases. I so wish I’d met her, she lived through the 1906 SanFran earthquake, age 6. When city officials said all children must leave SF due to the raging fires which would finish off what Mother Nature started, her parents pinned her name on her little wool coat and sent her across the Bay on a ferry to stay with relatives. I digress! The Maya have struggled and are still struggling. In Chiapas, Guatemala, even in touristy spots like QRoo—but due now to a more ‘civilized’ (I say that tongue in cheek) subjugation—lack of employment due to societal issues, language skills etc. When we first moved to Yucatan, some Maya spoke only Mayan, no Spanish, nada mas. I think it’s important for people to know of the worldwide struggles of so many. The dare I say underdogs of the world. Probably un-PC bc were supposed to pretend awful things didn’t happen so we sanitize the language (ie climate change vs global warming). In Daniel Quinn’s exceptional book Ishmael he breaks all down to Leavers vs Takers/leavers from tribal communities, takers dominant cultures. Pretty much wraps up ‘the fix we’re in.’ So, I write about the Caste War of Yucatán (long 2 part series coming)and the majesty of the Maya, trying to shine a little light on an age-old story, in so many ways. Glad it resonated and thanks for sharing the Irish struggles with me.
Another informative read and great story-telling, Jeanine. It seems Caste Wars have been going on for centuries. And here we are again, though we may not call them Caste Wars.
Thanks Jennifer. Jorge was a gem. Early on in Mexico it was always a little amazing (to a gringa) the tasks that children, some quite young--younger than Jorge--performed. Eventually you get the hang of it and realize how cognizant the world is (maybe other than US of A) at such a young age, and capable of managing big issues. Our Spanish was not that great yet, but good enough to get the meaning of it between the 2 of us. When his dad suggested a guide, I thought he was going to be our guide. Silly me. And as mentioned, Jorge was mature and patient ): It was a really great experience. At Labna we also had a child guide. The things one learns along the way. And yes, the Yucatán beckons!
This interesting story (another one!) puts me right there with you-- from the traffic congested street and the vendors to the breakfast and cerveza and what especially resonates with me just now is the conflict and war between the Maya and the Spaniards. I am currently doing a lot of research about an incident in the Pueblos of New Mexico in the mid-1700s that had some of its roots in the Pueblo Revolt of 1680. The revolt that was made necessary because of the exact actions of the Spanish against the indigenous people of New Mexico. Wash Rinse Repeat
Very welcome! Oh great Claire! You will absolutely love Ek Balam. It's more touristy now—how could it not be—but the odd thing w/ so many of the lesser known sites is often you go there, and see barely a soul!
Young Jorge sounds like he's already an archaeologist, minus the digging part. I'm going to be staying in Valladolid for 3 nights in February. I was only planning to see Chichen Itza, but you've convinced me to go to Ek Balam, too.
Oh definitely, David! It's so close to Valladolid and really something else. Far less tourists than Chichen Itza which makes it really an adventure. Plus it's absolutely lovely, and so different. Saludos!
Wow. I did not know about the Caste War of Yucatán. Been to Valladolid, but didn't go deep enough it seems. Now I want to go back and pay better attention. Thank you, Jeanine!
Thank You, Damon! I've written a long solo post on Caste War b/c it's so unreal--that it lasted THAT long. And I've also written about the first 2 explorers who braved the conditions of the Maya's anger, and ended up stumbling onto Uxmal, Chichen Itza and so much more--John Lloyd Stephens and artist Frederick Catherwood. Intrepid souls they were. The Yucatán is simply jammed full of such amazing stories. (just love it).
I have this idea that I have to go to Chiapas or Guate to really sink my teeth into the history of the Maya. You’re opening up my mind to the Earth at our feet.
¡Hola! Yo vivo en Cancún, Quintana Roo, soy historiadora y tengo en Substack un newsletter llamada Cafés con Historia donde charlamos sobre temas diversos de la historia de México. Te invito a darte una vuelta, creo que te puede interesar. Saludos
Another fine post on the history and historical places of Mexico. The Spanish and the Mexicans who emerged from colonialism treated the Maya so horribly, even up to modern times. Thanks for treating the subject with honesty and sensitivity.
Thanks Mike. I've written a long long article on the Caste War that I'll eventually post in 2 parts. I thought it would be too-something--but b/c very few outside of probably south-eastern MX know much about it, it may strike a chord. Tulum was one of the last stands of the Maya that held off the hacendados. There's a church there that I've gone to, very hard to locate, I think on purpose, and very humble. All this stuff to me is like looking history in the face. I love it.
You're making my head big, Priya! One of the convenient things about Maya pyramids in the Yucatán is that they're in close proximity (many) to each other--within 150 mile radius or so. for number of them. So one can really get your Maya fix with a lot of variation on a 7 day vacation, if that's your thing.
Sadly I didn't make it to Ek Balam when I was there. A good excuse to visit again! I gather it's more touristy today though...
And given the way their land was taken, no wonder the Mayans revolted, who wouldn't!? Explains a lot of why there continues to be tension between people of different races today.
Fascinating. I did not know any of this history before, and your writing is wonderful in its details. I'm particularly interested in the stucco frescos that appear to be Greek or Indian--even in a lotus position! Does anyone understand yet how these developed out of the unique culture of Ek Balam?
In particular, I had never heard of the 1847 Caste War of Yucatán, which killed 250,000. It struck me, though, that at the same time on the other side of the world, another subjugated people-the Irish--were suffering through a famine ((1845-1852) that killed one million people from starvation and disease and forced another million people to emigrate.
You also write that "A three century struggle begun in 1543 when Montejo’s nephew subjugated those early Maya did not truly end until 1915 with the Mexican Revolution."
The English first invaded Ireland in 1169, but the crown asserted full control of the country in 1541. Similar to the Maya, the Irish tried numerous times to rebel, and thousands lost their lives as a result. And then the Easter Rising occurred in April 1916. Although it was brutally crushed within a week, it led to the War of Independence (1919-1921) and--finally--to independence on December 26, 1921.
All of which are some interesting parallels that I never knew before!
The struggle of the Irish, Clarice (the troubles). Sigh. I knew it all lasted long, but not that long. Paul is half Irish and he occasionally comes up with his Irish granny’s phrases. I so wish I’d met her, she lived through the 1906 SanFran earthquake, age 6. When city officials said all children must leave SF due to the raging fires which would finish off what Mother Nature started, her parents pinned her name on her little wool coat and sent her across the Bay on a ferry to stay with relatives. I digress! The Maya have struggled and are still struggling. In Chiapas, Guatemala, even in touristy spots like QRoo—but due now to a more ‘civilized’ (I say that tongue in cheek) subjugation—lack of employment due to societal issues, language skills etc. When we first moved to Yucatan, some Maya spoke only Mayan, no Spanish, nada mas. I think it’s important for people to know of the worldwide struggles of so many. The dare I say underdogs of the world. Probably un-PC bc were supposed to pretend awful things didn’t happen so we sanitize the language (ie climate change vs global warming). In Daniel Quinn’s exceptional book Ishmael he breaks all down to Leavers vs Takers/leavers from tribal communities, takers dominant cultures. Pretty much wraps up ‘the fix we’re in.’ So, I write about the Caste War of Yucatán (long 2 part series coming)and the majesty of the Maya, trying to shine a little light on an age-old story, in so many ways. Glad it resonated and thanks for sharing the Irish struggles with me.
Another informative read and great story-telling, Jeanine. It seems Caste Wars have been going on for centuries. And here we are again, though we may not call them Caste Wars.
Too true and sad, Paulette. By another name, but still the same. Thanks for reading.
Another fascinating post, Jeanine. I love Jorge, what a little gem he was. Did he speak English or was your Spanish already that good?
We loved seeing the pyramids at Monte Alban. They are truly a life-changing experience. Now I need to visit the Yucatan!
Thanks Jennifer. Jorge was a gem. Early on in Mexico it was always a little amazing (to a gringa) the tasks that children, some quite young--younger than Jorge--performed. Eventually you get the hang of it and realize how cognizant the world is (maybe other than US of A) at such a young age, and capable of managing big issues. Our Spanish was not that great yet, but good enough to get the meaning of it between the 2 of us. When his dad suggested a guide, I thought he was going to be our guide. Silly me. And as mentioned, Jorge was mature and patient ): It was a really great experience. At Labna we also had a child guide. The things one learns along the way. And yes, the Yucatán beckons!
Fascinating information, as always, Jeanine. I know where to go if I'm in the area. Thank you for a great read!
Thanks Lois. Yes, lots of pyramids in old Mexico and so much history.
This interesting story (another one!) puts me right there with you-- from the traffic congested street and the vendors to the breakfast and cerveza and what especially resonates with me just now is the conflict and war between the Maya and the Spaniards. I am currently doing a lot of research about an incident in the Pueblos of New Mexico in the mid-1700s that had some of its roots in the Pueblo Revolt of 1680. The revolt that was made necessary because of the exact actions of the Spanish against the indigenous people of New Mexico. Wash Rinse Repeat
Thanks for the comment Lucinda. Yes, your research does parallel the Maya insurrection—and sadly so as you aptly write, ‘Wash Rinse Repeat.’
Looking forward to what comes from your research.
Thank you for this! I hope to visit the Ek Balam site next time I’m there, which might be the spring of 2025!
Very welcome! Oh great Claire! You will absolutely love Ek Balam. It's more touristy now—how could it not be—but the odd thing w/ so many of the lesser known sites is often you go there, and see barely a soul!
PS If you go to Ek Balam, Claire, maybe Jorge will be your guide, decades older by now ):
Young Jorge sounds like he's already an archaeologist, minus the digging part. I'm going to be staying in Valladolid for 3 nights in February. I was only planning to see Chichen Itza, but you've convinced me to go to Ek Balam, too.
Oh definitely, David! It's so close to Valladolid and really something else. Far less tourists than Chichen Itza which makes it really an adventure. Plus it's absolutely lovely, and so different. Saludos!
Wow. I did not know about the Caste War of Yucatán. Been to Valladolid, but didn't go deep enough it seems. Now I want to go back and pay better attention. Thank you, Jeanine!
Thank You, Damon! I've written a long solo post on Caste War b/c it's so unreal--that it lasted THAT long. And I've also written about the first 2 explorers who braved the conditions of the Maya's anger, and ended up stumbling onto Uxmal, Chichen Itza and so much more--John Lloyd Stephens and artist Frederick Catherwood. Intrepid souls they were. The Yucatán is simply jammed full of such amazing stories. (just love it).
I have this idea that I have to go to Chiapas or Guate to really sink my teeth into the history of the Maya. You’re opening up my mind to the Earth at our feet.
Chiapas is a good start imho—I love Palrnque. Or Guatemala— Tikal. I’m excited for you!
All the places!!!
☝️ 👀 🤚
¡Hola! Yo vivo en Cancún, Quintana Roo, soy historiadora y tengo en Substack un newsletter llamada Cafés con Historia donde charlamos sobre temas diversos de la historia de México. Te invito a darte una vuelta, creo que te puede interesar. Saludos
Mil gracias, Angélica. Por supuesto. Saludos!
Another fine post on the history and historical places of Mexico. The Spanish and the Mexicans who emerged from colonialism treated the Maya so horribly, even up to modern times. Thanks for treating the subject with honesty and sensitivity.
Thanks Mike. I've written a long long article on the Caste War that I'll eventually post in 2 parts. I thought it would be too-something--but b/c very few outside of probably south-eastern MX know much about it, it may strike a chord. Tulum was one of the last stands of the Maya that held off the hacendados. There's a church there that I've gone to, very hard to locate, I think on purpose, and very humble. All this stuff to me is like looking history in the face. I love it.
Great post, Jeanine! I had no idea about this subject. I may never get to the Yucatan peninsula, but your posts inform and entertain me. Write on!
Thanks Mikel. Yes, there's so much history in the Yucatán, and really, all of Mexico when you think about it.
I can’t believe I haven’t visited Mexico yet. Your stories are luring me there!
You're making my head big, Priya! One of the convenient things about Maya pyramids in the Yucatán is that they're in close proximity (many) to each other--within 150 mile radius or so. for number of them. So one can really get your Maya fix with a lot of variation on a 7 day vacation, if that's your thing.
Sadly I didn't make it to Ek Balam when I was there. A good excuse to visit again! I gather it's more touristy today though...
And given the way their land was taken, no wonder the Mayans revolted, who wouldn't!? Explains a lot of why there continues to be tension between people of different races today.
Yes it is a good excuse to come back. And it is more touristy, we lucked out!