Great post, Jeanine! Where do you guys hail from originally?
I planned to move to Mérida for a while until I went to see it in person back in 2022 and realised it wasn't for us. But I visited the English library you mentioned — even took out a membership! I'll make sure to pop into Alma Libre Libros if I'm ever in Puerto Morales!
How great re Merida library, having seen it. We sold Alma Libre a while back as we wanted to re-retire. It was meant to be a hobby (I tell the whole story in my serialization under Where the Sky is Born at top and throughout my stack site). There were no bookstores in MX to speak of and when we traveled I’d always run out of books. Anyway, we did it for a long time and it’s now in capable hands of Caleb&Nicole, going strong. We’d moved to MX to enjoy the beach, the ocean and travel around other parts of MX and see more pyramids (my passion) and being married to the bookstore schedule, 5 days a wk, it was too restrictive in time. But do stop in! You will love it, it is still darling! Also, Valencia doesn’t sound too bad ): I love Spain.
I love the photos of your bookstore! - it's how I remember it: I always loved those windows, I thought they were the most original architectural features. Sounds like you had a great experience in Merida - we rarely visited in the early days, though it was a nice colonial city, I couldn't take the heat with the humidity with no breeze; we never dined at Alberto's. About Palenque: I am jealous you got to see Pakal's tomb in its original location - so did Jeff (before he met me), but by the time I made it there, they closed the pyramid, and I only saw it in the museum - still impressive. I remember watching a show about how Alberto Ruiz discovered it. Anyway, love your adventures in the Yucatan and beyond, while running a bookstore - during some of the best times to be there.
Emese, thanks so much! Such a fun time and you saw us from the beginning! Staying nearby at charming Posada Amor. Re the windows, they were there when we moved in. We renovated the interior but those darling small pane windows were there— just waiting for a coat of Maya Azul (!) you wrote about yesterday! We both love that color! Merida- we loved. We were often there in winter months though, so cooler (respectively, haha). We’re kinda city people—San Fran deep in our bones, Paul 3rd generation, a true anomaly. His Irish grannie went through 1906 shaker, age 6. She’d go nuts when we there was one, no matter how small. But love the wilds, too, oh the dilemma of those Geminis (both of us). Palenque! First time I saw it—blown away. I write about in memoir. To come. The Asian influence floored me. And the opening to see Pakal’s tomb, understated! You know how INAH handles some of the world’s greatest achievements— low key at best. Always blows me away. No wonder so much theft, but then again, the scores of sites and the recency of the Maya place on world stage, a drop of time. Saludos amiga!!
Yes, we did. :) Jeff and I both feel it was the best time in the area, before the tourists really discovered it (or the state started catering to them on a larger scale. Jeff might have been one of your first customers asking you about books about the Maya - I remember you guys talking about The Lost World of QR while I was reading for my kids (just toddlers at the time) in your children's section; they loved being there. I think I would've liked Merida more in the winter; we were there in early April the first time which was not the best time for an introduction to the city. As city people from San Fran you guys really got out of your comfort zone in Puerto Morelos - what a difference! Looking forward to your post about Palenque - I love the site, one of my favorites! Our next site will be Copan - I'll write about it after we return.
Copan should be so incredible! Yay! You guys probably were the first asking about Maya books— and spurred us on. According to our contractor he always said April is the hottest month there! Seems weird but if so, you got the full shebang on heat! I love the wild spaces and Mex-Puerto Morelos at that time was a dream come true. Paul is antsyer than me, though he did his small organic farm thing in his mid 20s including grapes, plus we lived upcountry on the land in Maui where he converted the 2 acres into a lush garden— he loves gardening and growing things. As mentioned Geminis- 2 sides, plus my hippie years were spent in Mendocino county, outback, wood stove, no TV or phone. My mom was appalled. our later years before MX we were city bound due to work culture to pay for Mx-bookstore etc. chameleons I guess. But his Italian side loves to eat and easier to find restaurants in cities
Just saw this. In it she mentions she goes into his kitchen at Alberto’s Continental Patio and grills a chicken w/ him and he makes one, of his signature dishes “Pollo en Escabeche Oriental.” Left it out of article as figured too much information. Plus the NYT food editor was Susan Spano. (she ate in the courtyard).
I love this installment and learning about Don Alberto and his history. Like the US, Mexico is a such a melting pot of culture and cuisine. The photos are fabulous, Jeanine.
The sarcophagus lid was huge, in a cramped space down steep set of stairs and was open to the public, not sure if his bones were still there. I wrote about it in my post on artist Merle Greene Robertson who did a rubbing of it. Pretty neat. The early days before tourism hit.
Thank you Marlo. That is the best thing about traveling, don't you think? You meet such a variety of people. And in those early days (for the Yucatán and eastern Carib-MX) there weren't a lot of tourists. Often the locals wanted to practice their English, and of course, the Mexicans are so warm and welcoming anyway. Alberto was a step apart, and if he could charm Diana Kennedy (which I hear was no small feat) and get written up by NYT food editor and she was a big name apparently, he had the charm machine down. He said he treated his restaurant like his living room, so everyone was a guest. We took everyone there, 3 hr drive and all. Would stay over a night or 2 in Merida, see Uxmal the next day, go to the 'gulf,' or some little local pueblo. Then eat at Alberto's.
Another wonderful narrative on your Yukatán journey. Sounds like such an interesting and rewarding time for you. The bookstore looks lovely, and I really enjoyed your descriptions of dining at Alberto‘s restaurant.
Most of my old friends have passed on now, and a lot of them were from interior, CDMX, which was way different than outback Cancun area back then. Very unsettled and a mish-mash of MX cultures b.c it was the New New--where opportunities loomed. Like going to NYC if you were from the midwest as a break-out move. At the time we didn't realize how unique it was, but our BFF and neighbor, from an old CDMX zion of a family, was our Mex 101 'tutor' and told us so much about the country and culture, history, politics. May he RIP. Still miss him dearly. We had him over for dinner every Monday night, our day off at the bookstore, and learned so much from him. Even he was a breakout. After his divorce (not done much in MX back then) he brought his 3 sons, 14, 16, 18, to funky little Puerto Morelos. Kind of incognito for him, to avoid all the la-di-da of the big city. The boys were great too. And they were readers!! His oldest, will never forget, read Lovecraft! Mexican intellectuals are the best. A notch above.
Will give it another try! Think it happens more in older cities, like Merida, probably Valladolid. Our carpenter, from Merida, told us about it (I think or Joe our contractor) but in PM, not a regular thing. There are usually tyanguis (flea makets) on Sundays. But not like ONE day in the month for artists inQRoo. It’s too new of a place. There’s all the pageantry and history of hundreds of years inland cities. QRoo was founded in 1974. I’ll check w/ CDMX pals.
It’s just such a cool tradition. I’ve never heard it happening in a regular basis just for artists. I guess regular markets that allow artists would be a consistent event here, but they aren’t designated most of the time just for artists.
Just wrote a long reply and my Mac dropped it. Will answer late, I’ve been having this problem a lot. Think need to upgrade my software to next IOS, but my computer is getting a little old. I’m told I should get a new one but I shudder at the thought!
Thanks Tinashe. I kind of fall in love w. everyone I meet, then I wax on poetically about them. Always wearing my heart on my sleeve! And thanks for the restack!
"For years visitors could descend down the very steps cleared by Ruz’s team to view the sarcophagus lid of Palenque’s most famous ruler." --> No way! Envious over here.
"In the Mexican constitution, one day a month is set aside for artists to convene in a public place..." Did not know this. Explains so much in one sentence.
Isn’t that incredible Damon!! Now I forget who told me—either Arturo (carpenter who is from Merida) or our contactor Joe. I’ve always marveled at the artistic nature and often with so few materials. Like at Tulum, on the beach road early on. The solar b n b’s we’re so darling and exotic with wood art, branches. Even early Playa. 100 Percent Natural-a treehouse! Have you been to Alux in the colonia? In the cave? Mexico hands down is so artistic and creative.
Thanks David! Sadly no. It closed in 2013 and opened under a similar name but didn’t make it. Alberto died in 2021 RIP dear Alberto. We dragged all our friends and family there despite the 3 hour drive to Merida. But always lobbed in a trip to Uxmal or Progreso . He was simply wonderful. Charming and funny. A true raconteur.
Great post, Jeanine! Where do you guys hail from originally?
I planned to move to Mérida for a while until I went to see it in person back in 2022 and realised it wasn't for us. But I visited the English library you mentioned — even took out a membership! I'll make sure to pop into Alma Libre Libros if I'm ever in Puerto Morales!
Oh, San Francisco. And you?
Vancouver island, living in Thailand atm but in Mexico now!
Hope you’re enjoying Mexico! It’s a vast and beautiful country as you know! Saludos!🇲🇽
How great re Merida library, having seen it. We sold Alma Libre a while back as we wanted to re-retire. It was meant to be a hobby (I tell the whole story in my serialization under Where the Sky is Born at top and throughout my stack site). There were no bookstores in MX to speak of and when we traveled I’d always run out of books. Anyway, we did it for a long time and it’s now in capable hands of Caleb&Nicole, going strong. We’d moved to MX to enjoy the beach, the ocean and travel around other parts of MX and see more pyramids (my passion) and being married to the bookstore schedule, 5 days a wk, it was too restrictive in time. But do stop in! You will love it, it is still darling! Also, Valencia doesn’t sound too bad ): I love Spain.
Well it's great you were able to sell it. At least you know it's being taken care of. I will definitely stop by if I'm ever in the area!
You are living one of my dreams and I love that for you 💜💐
Thank you (just saw this)!
Wonderful writing and an interesting story Jeanine. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you so much David!!
Another lovely story! Is Alberto still living? Is his restaurant still there?
Thanks Clarice. Alberto sold the restaurant in 2013 and it lasted a year or so. He died in 2021. A Merida legend.
I love the photos of your bookstore! - it's how I remember it: I always loved those windows, I thought they were the most original architectural features. Sounds like you had a great experience in Merida - we rarely visited in the early days, though it was a nice colonial city, I couldn't take the heat with the humidity with no breeze; we never dined at Alberto's. About Palenque: I am jealous you got to see Pakal's tomb in its original location - so did Jeff (before he met me), but by the time I made it there, they closed the pyramid, and I only saw it in the museum - still impressive. I remember watching a show about how Alberto Ruiz discovered it. Anyway, love your adventures in the Yucatan and beyond, while running a bookstore - during some of the best times to be there.
Emese, thanks so much! Such a fun time and you saw us from the beginning! Staying nearby at charming Posada Amor. Re the windows, they were there when we moved in. We renovated the interior but those darling small pane windows were there— just waiting for a coat of Maya Azul (!) you wrote about yesterday! We both love that color! Merida- we loved. We were often there in winter months though, so cooler (respectively, haha). We’re kinda city people—San Fran deep in our bones, Paul 3rd generation, a true anomaly. His Irish grannie went through 1906 shaker, age 6. She’d go nuts when we there was one, no matter how small. But love the wilds, too, oh the dilemma of those Geminis (both of us). Palenque! First time I saw it—blown away. I write about in memoir. To come. The Asian influence floored me. And the opening to see Pakal’s tomb, understated! You know how INAH handles some of the world’s greatest achievements— low key at best. Always blows me away. No wonder so much theft, but then again, the scores of sites and the recency of the Maya place on world stage, a drop of time. Saludos amiga!!
Yes, we did. :) Jeff and I both feel it was the best time in the area, before the tourists really discovered it (or the state started catering to them on a larger scale. Jeff might have been one of your first customers asking you about books about the Maya - I remember you guys talking about The Lost World of QR while I was reading for my kids (just toddlers at the time) in your children's section; they loved being there. I think I would've liked Merida more in the winter; we were there in early April the first time which was not the best time for an introduction to the city. As city people from San Fran you guys really got out of your comfort zone in Puerto Morelos - what a difference! Looking forward to your post about Palenque - I love the site, one of my favorites! Our next site will be Copan - I'll write about it after we return.
Copan should be so incredible! Yay! You guys probably were the first asking about Maya books— and spurred us on. According to our contractor he always said April is the hottest month there! Seems weird but if so, you got the full shebang on heat! I love the wild spaces and Mex-Puerto Morelos at that time was a dream come true. Paul is antsyer than me, though he did his small organic farm thing in his mid 20s including grapes, plus we lived upcountry on the land in Maui where he converted the 2 acres into a lush garden— he loves gardening and growing things. As mentioned Geminis- 2 sides, plus my hippie years were spent in Mendocino county, outback, wood stove, no TV or phone. My mom was appalled. our later years before MX we were city bound due to work culture to pay for Mx-bookstore etc. chameleons I guess. But his Italian side loves to eat and easier to find restaurants in cities
Thanks for restack Phil&Maude.
You have met the most amazing people! I have to check my Diana Kennedy cookbook now to find a mention of the Continental.
Just saw this. In it she mentions she goes into his kitchen at Alberto’s Continental Patio and grills a chicken w/ him and he makes one, of his signature dishes “Pollo en Escabeche Oriental.” Left it out of article as figured too much information. Plus the NYT food editor was Susan Spano. (she ate in the courtyard).
I love this installment and learning about Don Alberto and his history. Like the US, Mexico is a such a melting pot of culture and cuisine. The photos are fabulous, Jeanine.
Thanks Paulette! He was a real peach!
I'm in awe that you peered down on Pakal's tomb!
The sarcophagus lid was huge, in a cramped space down steep set of stairs and was open to the public, not sure if his bones were still there. I wrote about it in my post on artist Merle Greene Robertson who did a rubbing of it. Pretty neat. The early days before tourism hit.
It’s hard to imagine!!
Glad you were able to see it at least, and have that mental picture.
I’m so drawn to your stories about meeting interesting people like Alberto! I feel like I’ve met them too through your writing!
Thank you Marlo. That is the best thing about traveling, don't you think? You meet such a variety of people. And in those early days (for the Yucatán and eastern Carib-MX) there weren't a lot of tourists. Often the locals wanted to practice their English, and of course, the Mexicans are so warm and welcoming anyway. Alberto was a step apart, and if he could charm Diana Kennedy (which I hear was no small feat) and get written up by NYT food editor and she was a big name apparently, he had the charm machine down. He said he treated his restaurant like his living room, so everyone was a guest. We took everyone there, 3 hr drive and all. Would stay over a night or 2 in Merida, see Uxmal the next day, go to the 'gulf,' or some little local pueblo. Then eat at Alberto's.
Yes agree Jeanine! Meeting people is the best thing about traveling!
Another wonderful narrative on your Yukatán journey. Sounds like such an interesting and rewarding time for you. The bookstore looks lovely, and I really enjoyed your descriptions of dining at Alberto‘s restaurant.
He was simply great. Old school raconteur. Charming, fun. And thank you!
Is the Mexican monthly artist’s day still happening?
Most of my old friends have passed on now, and a lot of them were from interior, CDMX, which was way different than outback Cancun area back then. Very unsettled and a mish-mash of MX cultures b.c it was the New New--where opportunities loomed. Like going to NYC if you were from the midwest as a break-out move. At the time we didn't realize how unique it was, but our BFF and neighbor, from an old CDMX zion of a family, was our Mex 101 'tutor' and told us so much about the country and culture, history, politics. May he RIP. Still miss him dearly. We had him over for dinner every Monday night, our day off at the bookstore, and learned so much from him. Even he was a breakout. After his divorce (not done much in MX back then) he brought his 3 sons, 14, 16, 18, to funky little Puerto Morelos. Kind of incognito for him, to avoid all the la-di-da of the big city. The boys were great too. And they were readers!! His oldest, will never forget, read Lovecraft! Mexican intellectuals are the best. A notch above.
Will give it another try! Think it happens more in older cities, like Merida, probably Valladolid. Our carpenter, from Merida, told us about it (I think or Joe our contractor) but in PM, not a regular thing. There are usually tyanguis (flea makets) on Sundays. But not like ONE day in the month for artists inQRoo. It’s too new of a place. There’s all the pageantry and history of hundreds of years inland cities. QRoo was founded in 1974. I’ll check w/ CDMX pals.
It’s just such a cool tradition. I’ve never heard it happening in a regular basis just for artists. I guess regular markets that allow artists would be a consistent event here, but they aren’t designated most of the time just for artists.
Just wrote a long reply and my Mac dropped it. Will answer late, I’ve been having this problem a lot. Think need to upgrade my software to next IOS, but my computer is getting a little old. I’m told I should get a new one but I shudder at the thought!
Another great account, Jeanine. You have a gift of bringing a story to life.
Thanks Tinashe. I kind of fall in love w. everyone I meet, then I wax on poetically about them. Always wearing my heart on my sleeve! And thanks for the restack!
I'm always impressed by your posts, Jeanine. Wow.
Thanks Mikel.
Another fun read, Jeanine. Thank you.
"For years visitors could descend down the very steps cleared by Ruz’s team to view the sarcophagus lid of Palenque’s most famous ruler." --> No way! Envious over here.
"In the Mexican constitution, one day a month is set aside for artists to convene in a public place..." Did not know this. Explains so much in one sentence.
Isn’t that incredible Damon!! Now I forget who told me—either Arturo (carpenter who is from Merida) or our contactor Joe. I’ve always marveled at the artistic nature and often with so few materials. Like at Tulum, on the beach road early on. The solar b n b’s we’re so darling and exotic with wood art, branches. Even early Playa. 100 Percent Natural-a treehouse! Have you been to Alux in the colonia? In the cave? Mexico hands down is so artistic and creative.
Marvellous recollections. Is Alberto's restaurant still in business?
Thanks David! Sadly no. It closed in 2013 and opened under a similar name but didn’t make it. Alberto died in 2021 RIP dear Alberto. We dragged all our friends and family there despite the 3 hour drive to Merida. But always lobbed in a trip to Uxmal or Progreso . He was simply wonderful. Charming and funny. A true raconteur.