28 Comments

Wow so interesting! I can’t wait to pursue some of these fascinating threads you have woven.

Expand full comment
author

Thanks David!

Expand full comment

Jeanine your devotion to digging, unearthing, and trying to ferret out the truth about the Maya is inspirational. As a Native American I appreciate your research on behalf of the indigenous people of Mexico. The search for truth about my people can be complicated, corrupted and emotional. You do your research thoroughly and pull all the threads together so well. Fascinating as usual.

Expand full comment
author

Thank you so much, Lucinda. I’m not quite sure why I adopted this passion for the Maya and the pyramids. Actually, seeing and being at so many sites did work the magic, but I think sighting my first pyramid, Chichen Itza, just blew me away.

Expand full comment

Having been to Chichen Itza and Cancun, I love the history lessons about these areas and how they 'came to be' as we know them, but what their real history is! Fascinating!

Expand full comment
author

Thanks Marlo! I went down the rabbit hole with this one b/c I really admire Felipe Carrillo Puerto, the progressive 1920s Yucatán governor, and knew he issued the first road into Chichen Itza and invited archeologists, media etc. Casteñada gave rather disparaging remarks about Carrillo Puerto being in it for - whatever. That led me into more digging around. Thanks for reading!!

Expand full comment

This is really interesting, Jeanine, but it raises a lot of questions in me. You write:

"Through these studies the Maya way of life could be dissected. Castañeda insists this allowed the structure of an evolutionary fable that created “a museum of history” at Chichen Itza.

"With Maya labor from nearby towns, the jungle was peeled back to reveal the ancient stones of decayed buildings. Chichen Itza was restored as a replica of itself and reconstructed into a life size model of a Maya city.”"

What would Castañeda have preferred? That Chichen Itza remain lost in the jungle and that the present-day Maya themselves remain unaware of its magnificence and that light snakes down the stairways on the equinoxes?

How do the Maya themselves feel about what has happened? Do they feel 'raped' because westerners have studied their "geology, botany, zoology, climatology, agronomy, medicine, physical anthropology, linguistics, history, archeology, ethnography and sociology"?

Or is Castañeda foisting his own western ideas on the Maya as well?

Expand full comment
author

I believe the latter. But once again, I’m a journalist reporting what I read and research. The last, it’s said, of direct lineage to the ancient Maya are the Lacondan Maya, Chiapas, think population 500ish. They sell wares at Palenque but are not over anxious to speak to others is what I heard.

Expand full comment
author

Oh and one other thing:in the Yucatan, especially the city and area surrounding Merida,,that great city, the local Maya are very proud of their heritage, the sites nearby and far. Many locals work in the tour industry as guides and also doing research. There are several museums spread throughout the Peninsula—from Merida to Chetumal and Cancun, honoring the Maya. Castenada made his point, but the archaeologists from 1920s onward could not re-place boulders, rocks exactly as they were millennia ago. They had to slice off portions to make them fit, I understand. Hope that helps.

Expand full comment
May 20Liked by Jeanine Kitchel

Nice one, Jeanine! The West’s insistence on viewing the world through its own lens is, although a distinctly human thing to do, nonetheless annoying from a scientific and anthropological perspective. These types of issues deserve more exploration. Thanks for giving this particular one its due.

Expand full comment
author

Thanks, Mike. Until I saw Castenada’s theory, i hadn’t thought about it much. I’m not sure the design was to re-create the Maya way, but it’s an interesting take. The great thing is there are many Maya still here, working their milpas, some doing ceremonial things or following the calendars. Doing their thing—come hell or the MNTC.

Expand full comment
May 17Liked by Jeanine Kitchel

Fascinating story! A great look into the labyrinth of "the takers and the givers" as it has been playing out in Mayan Mexico for ages!

Expand full comment
author

Thanks for your input, Lana, so true. The Maya, especially in Chiapas, the poorest state of the MX Union, has the highest concentration of Maya and they are so poor. The state (and others) have managed to finagle so much of their land they can barely farm. In writing this, I thought about Quinn's book, Ishmael (Utne Readers #1 book of the decade, 1990-2000) and the takers and givers concept and how it meshes.

Expand full comment

A fascinating work, Jeanine. Mexico has such a rich and vibrant history, along with the divergence of many different cultures. Your hard work and effort have put this complex piece of history together beautifully. Thank you so much for writing this very exceptional piece.

Expand full comment
author

Thank you so much Lois! I stumbled onto Casteñada's work a while ago. But prior to that while working on a piece about journalist Alma Reed and Felipe Carrillo Puerto, 1920s progressive governor of the Yucatán, I learned that Carrillo Puerto had commissioned a road into the pyramid site and invited archeologists and the media. Then I did a deep dive into Carrillo Puerto, who truly was progressive and a reformer, in assisting the Maya by having the state constitution translated into Maya (in addition to Spanish), setting up feminist leagues that legalized birth control and establishing family planning clinics, plus trying to get the Maya's land returned to them from the hacendados. Unfortunately, his high profile in assisting the underdog shortened his life.

Expand full comment

100% agree! There’s a book in this,Jeanine!

Expand full comment

Very interesting! Thank you for sharing your research and knowledge.

Expand full comment

You've done it again my friend💜🐈🐈

Expand full comment
author

Thank you Micheline! Appreciate it.

Expand full comment

More fascinating Maya culture history! The story title was intriguing and your telling of the complex history and background, series of events, people and motivations and theories really is captivating and thought provoking. As always, Felipe Carillo Puerto keeps me spellbound! His concern and respect for the indigenous, his humantarian actions and contributions were so progressive. I see him as transcendental. But sadly, such a premature, sad and tragic end to his life.

Expand full comment
author

It truly is, Barbra. You got such an up-close view of it this past year. And yes, Carrillo Puerto is such a tragic figure--embodied so much for the common 'man.' Transcendental, such a good word for him and all that he embodied. Thanks for your thoughtful comments.

Expand full comment

So grateful you introduced me to the book Passionate Pilgrim, which impacted me deeply and urged me to learn more about Felipe and Alma and that tumultuous, tragic time in Yucatan history. And speaking of history, your Chichen-Itza piece was captivating - full of surprises! We all learn so much from you!

Expand full comment

Jeanine, I love learning the history of these places. There is so much complexity, and you weave it together quite beautifully.

Expand full comment
author

Thank you, Holly!

Expand full comment

Great article!

Expand full comment
author

Thank you Harley! Much appreciated.

Expand full comment

Your writing encompasses so many different styles, Jeanine, including investigative journalism. You really pour your heart and soul into your work - and it shows! It’s such a great, nourishing pleasure to read your publications. Thank you.

Expand full comment
author

Wow, thank You, Lana! Very kind indeed. I have to admit I get so curious about a topic I really go down that rabbit hole.

Expand full comment