I waited a few days to read this because I saw it was the last chapter and I didn't want it to end! Did you go North every low-season and then return sometime later in the year?
Yes, we left every low season right after Semana Santa (not only to CA) as we rented out Casa Maya (like an Airbnb--live-in caretakers in caretaker cottage on property to assist guests) for income. Returned late October-early Nov, to get all re-settled. We stopped driving after 3 yrs. Much more expensive, and sometimes driving 4000 miles not that fun--for various reasons. By then we'd seen a lot of the interior, too.
You make Palenque--and the Lacondon--sound magical, Jeanine. I especially loved it when you wrote:
"The Lacondon are beautiful. Their skin is smooth and taut and tan in color. They have high cheekbones, dark, brilliant eyes, and they emitted an aura I can barely describe.
To me, it felt like they were not there in spirit. Their bodies existed, their molecules took up space, but it was as if they had dreamed these bodies and I was sleepwalking in their dream."
Have they managed to maintain their independence and way of life up to today?
Hi Clarice, I answered this but it disappeared. Am having continuous trouble when I answer on my MAC instead on my phone. Anyway, yes, the Lacondon still do maintain independence and have much control over the parking lot of Palenque. But I haven't been to the site for a while and hear that things are getting a little out of hand w. their market etc. I assume now w/ the Maya Train, many more tourists will arrive and it won't be the magical place I describe. Such is life and tourism! thanks for reading.
Did you own the bookstore right across from the parque, almost kitty-corner from the main church? I remember that bookstore so well from my teen years growing up there (late 1990s)!
Wow that's so cool! Yes, we lived there from 1996-1998 before we moved to Salina Cruz, Oaxaca and then up to Manzanillo (my dad worked in many Mexican ports, including the one in PM). I remember the bookstore being this cozy, warm-lit place and going there with my mom, Jan. We used to live across the street from Hacienda Morelos, just around the corner, down the street from Pelícanos :)
I probably would remember your mom. We opened the store Dec 1997so you were in PM our first 2 years. That’s wild Karla! Did you live near John Deutsch? The retired detective from NY? He had a duplex across from Hacienda M.
Thank you for sharing your journey, Jeanine. And for giving us a glimpse into the life you and Paul created. It was inspiring, informative, and entertaining.
You’re such a fantastic writer. Love that I feel like I’m right there with you. I’m picking up your memoir on Amazon, so I can read it in its entirety. I know I missed a few chapters along the way. Thanks for sharing Mexico and the Maya with us. ❤️
Where I first found your writing? Here on Substack! I think another person I follow liked one of your posts and it showed in my feed. Love your stuff! And lifestyle!
Oh thanks so much Brandi!! Yours is pretty cool too! The airplane - friends story is just the best, and then that she and you hung out in SanFran for that nice long time (and re-visit still). I’m from NorCal too and love that connection!!
Brandi— thank you so much! That really makes me happy! You’ll find some additional stories in the book. I varied a bit in the serialization. May I ask where you first found my writing? Thanks!
What a great ending with your Palenque visit, background of the Lacandon Maya and the jungle with the howlers. Beautiful imagery! I felt like I was there with you :) although I visited Palenque years later, when it was much more crowded, and the local vendors were lined up inside the site, on the trail near the Palace (no room for them in the front, with a parking lot taking up all the space)... still a gorgeous site.
I waited a few days to read this because I saw it was the last chapter and I didn't want it to end! Did you go North every low-season and then return sometime later in the year?
Yes, we left every low season right after Semana Santa (not only to CA) as we rented out Casa Maya (like an Airbnb--live-in caretakers in caretaker cottage on property to assist guests) for income. Returned late October-early Nov, to get all re-settled. We stopped driving after 3 yrs. Much more expensive, and sometimes driving 4000 miles not that fun--for various reasons. By then we'd seen a lot of the interior, too.
PS, also Marlo! Thank you for reading along with/ me, and I love that you waited to read the ending. Saludos, amiga!!
Thanks for restack Denise!
You make Palenque--and the Lacondon--sound magical, Jeanine. I especially loved it when you wrote:
"The Lacondon are beautiful. Their skin is smooth and taut and tan in color. They have high cheekbones, dark, brilliant eyes, and they emitted an aura I can barely describe.
To me, it felt like they were not there in spirit. Their bodies existed, their molecules took up space, but it was as if they had dreamed these bodies and I was sleepwalking in their dream."
Have they managed to maintain their independence and way of life up to today?
Hi Clarice, I answered this but it disappeared. Am having continuous trouble when I answer on my MAC instead on my phone. Anyway, yes, the Lacondon still do maintain independence and have much control over the parking lot of Palenque. But I haven't been to the site for a while and hear that things are getting a little out of hand w. their market etc. I assume now w/ the Maya Train, many more tourists will arrive and it won't be the magical place I describe. Such is life and tourism! thanks for reading.
Thanks for the restack @Martin Prior.
Did you own the bookstore right across from the parque, almost kitty-corner from the main church? I remember that bookstore so well from my teen years growing up there (late 1990s)!
Yes, Karla! Alma Libre Libros. Then for sure we crossed paths!!!!! We opened Dec. 1997. Were you still in PM then?
Wow that's so cool! Yes, we lived there from 1996-1998 before we moved to Salina Cruz, Oaxaca and then up to Manzanillo (my dad worked in many Mexican ports, including the one in PM). I remember the bookstore being this cozy, warm-lit place and going there with my mom, Jan. We used to live across the street from Hacienda Morelos, just around the corner, down the street from Pelícanos :)
I probably would remember your mom. We opened the store Dec 1997so you were in PM our first 2 years. That’s wild Karla! Did you live near John Deutsch? The retired detective from NY? He had a duplex across from Hacienda M.
Thanks for restack @Phil and Maude.
Thank you for sharing your journey, Jeanine. And for giving us a glimpse into the life you and Paul created. It was inspiring, informative, and entertaining.
Thanks so much to you, Paulette! Really appreciate you following along.
Thanks for restack @Daniel Catena.
Another great descriptive chapter, Jeanine. I'll never make it to that place, but I can appreciate what beckons in your writing. Write on, amiga.
Thanks so much Mikel. I love writing about it!
How shocking that this is how the slash and burn culture started! I learnt something new... And I'm not happy about it 😲
You’re such a fantastic writer. Love that I feel like I’m right there with you. I’m picking up your memoir on Amazon, so I can read it in its entirety. I know I missed a few chapters along the way. Thanks for sharing Mexico and the Maya with us. ❤️
Where I first found your writing? Here on Substack! I think another person I follow liked one of your posts and it showed in my feed. Love your stuff! And lifestyle!
Oh thanks so much Brandi!! Yours is pretty cool too! The airplane - friends story is just the best, and then that she and you hung out in SanFran for that nice long time (and re-visit still). I’m from NorCal too and love that connection!!
Isn't she! I adore Jeanine's style.
Oh, thank you, Nadine!!
Brandi— thank you so much! That really makes me happy! You’ll find some additional stories in the book. I varied a bit in the serialization. May I ask where you first found my writing? Thanks!
What a great ending with your Palenque visit, background of the Lacandon Maya and the jungle with the howlers. Beautiful imagery! I felt like I was there with you :) although I visited Palenque years later, when it was much more crowded, and the local vendors were lined up inside the site, on the trail near the Palace (no room for them in the front, with a parking lot taking up all the space)... still a gorgeous site.
Thank you so much Emese! Really appreciate that. You know the beauty and mystique of it so well.
This was a great intro for me to Mexico.
Thanks so much. With warts and all!!
Thanks for sharing your memoirs here. I loved reading them.
Thanks for reading it David. Appreciate that.
Thanks for restack @Dickerson Designs!
Yes, I feel Mexico in all its varieties is alive in you!
Thanks so much Claire.