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Janice Anne Wheeler's avatar

I missed this chapter somehow in the rush of summer starting....it speaks to what I've always believed, somehow, someway, things fall into place exactly as they should....thank you for sharing your story, Jeanine. It's inspiring! ~J

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Marlo Leaman's avatar

Full circle moment! Amazing that countries didn't/couldn't see/know how important the landscape and were blinded by money. I'm glad there are restrictions now, but I also think there are ways that people get by them. We just returned from Botswana where the government has protected the land, the people and the water. Amazing, unspoiled landscape!

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Jeanine Kitchel's avatar

Oh, looking forward to your posts on Botswana, Marlo! That’s great they have that in check. Corruption, once ingrained in a country (or person???)’s existence is hard to root out. Sadly.

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Barbra Bishop's avatar

Really interesting history of this area that you've written about. Love how it came full circle with your settling up with Alejandro and how, ultimately, your Casa Maya location definitely all worked for the very best! We visited Hacienda Tres Rios once, kayaked, were introduced to temescal and had a lovely lunch. It really does sit on a beautiful portion of the coast. The part about the incessant building with no regard to restrictions, destroying the mangroves & limestone shelves, and the albińeros—laborers— was so sad and disheartening. So much greed and corruption - seeing that going on must have been gut-wrenching. Thank goodness, eventual environmental protective reforms with more significant muscle emerged, but we know, it's still lacking. Michael Maurus has posted about ongoing mangrove abuse recently. Thanks for taking us along on your Yucatan/Quintana Roo adventure!

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Jeanine Kitchel's avatar

Thanks Barbra. Great you were at Tres Rios. It's a beautiful area, the cenote is so gorgeous and the beach there, pristine. Yes, very disheartening w/ govt regulations being ignored. Unfortunately in MX, though those govt reforms were suggested, even put into law, contractors and business owners often choose to ignore them (as w/ the case Michael is now writing about). Also, contractors will be awarded contracts and then simply quit mid-way through. For instance, Hwy 307 south of Playa was supposed to be asphalted and enlarged to add'l lane, contract awarded. When we came back 2nd year up 307, still one-lane, and nothing done from Tulum to Playa. The contractor took the $ but just never finished. The only way the hwy was completed was by the owner of Xcaret (who had skin in the game- the park is just south of Playa and he wanted tourists) was by paying for it himself, which he did, out of pocket. And even though in 2000 when Pres. Fox said through his envrionmental secy. that things would be a certain height, the builders at the hotels under the guise of the owners would just build whatever they wanted. Tulum is even worse, sadly. There's a video about it I can send link to if you like, but it is distressing, re water quality there, on YouTube.

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Barbra Bishop's avatar

Geeze, that is just rather shocking, how contractors and business people just flat out ignore those regulations, with no consequences - then and even now, as you mentioned about Tulum. Yes, I'd like to get that YouTube link. I've read bits and pieces about what's happened in Tulum, which sounds horrendous and so disgusting that this gorgeous, once authentic, town and location has pretty much been ruined. Thanks so much.

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Jeanine Kitchel's avatar

It is shocking, and though it happened over and over (right now btw Puerto M mayor is being indicted for embezzling 7 million pesos--but we endured many earlier scams too that went w/ no consequences, just a lot of bad mouthing) it continues to happen. But one can't write about it all the time bc it does get boring. I'll locate the link and DM you. It's old now, so even sadder that Tulum has endured lots of unfortunate things.

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Jennifer Silva Redmond's avatar

Your story is so fascinating. I am as intrigued as the first time I read it, as each little detail and event unfolds. And of course I get caught up in the nostalgic feeling of the "time before."

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Jeanine Kitchel's avatar

Thanks so much, Jennifer. Gracias big time.

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Jennifer Silva Redmond's avatar

I love to share writing (books, 'stacks) that I love with readers!

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Jeanine Kitchel's avatar

Thanks for restack @katherinasc

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Yasmin Chopin's avatar

I don't know the area, Jeanine, but I've heard of Quintana Roo - because it's the name that writer Joan Didion gave her adopted daughter. Joan had visited the area (before it was famous) and decided that the name was perfect for the gift of a daughter.

It's interesting to read about this place from your point of view and so sad to know that natural habitats are gone for ever despite the strong urge to protect and preserve by those who have morals.

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Jeanine Kitchel's avatar

Yes, I always loved that Joan and husband named their daughter Quintana (such a sad story). A beautiful place and I feel fortunate that we were able to see it so early on. As mentioned I feel I had a front row seat in watching history unfold, talk about ‘place,’ huh? The corruption and greed and non-adherence to regulations did the damage, and of course, there was much money to be made in a pristine paradise. We’ve seen this all before, I just never realized I’d see it in my lifetime, thanks for following along Yasmin!

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Ruth Stroud's avatar

This is such a sad but universal tale of greed and its consequences, and so beautifully told. I look forward to reading the chapters I missed on the way. Thanks for sharing this remarkable story, Jeanine.

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Jeanine Kitchel's avatar

Thanks so much, Ruth!

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Nadine's avatar

It really IS incredible. It’s been a pleasure to walk this road with you; thank you for inviting us into your world and sharing the highs, the hurdles, and the history so generously.

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Jeanine Kitchel's avatar

Oh thank you, Nadine, for coming along.

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Jeanine Kitchel's avatar

Thanks for restack @Bernardette Hernández

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Paulette Bodeman's avatar

Always fascinating, Jeanine. I'm so happy it all worked out.

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Jeanine Kitchel's avatar

Thanks Paulette. Also, I'm DMing you on a different topic.

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Paulette Bodeman's avatar

OK!

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David W. Zoll's avatar

Awesome Summary of decades of change.

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Jeanine Kitchel's avatar

Thanks a million, David.

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Daniel Catena's avatar

You had an amazing first-hand experience watching the Rivera Maya transform to what it is now. It's sad that greed and money drive so much of what happens. I'm happy for you and Paul! Another fantastic chapter, Jeanine!

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Jeanine Kitchel's avatar

And thanks for restack too!

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Jeanine Kitchel's avatar

Thanks so much Daniel!

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Jeanine Kitchel's avatar

Thanks for restack Marco&Sabrina.

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Jeanine Kitchel's avatar

Thanks for the restack Tinashe!

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Clarice Dankers's avatar

I'm so glad that everything worked out well for you and Paul, Jeanine. And what stories you have to tell in return! Although it must have been hard to witness the construction of so many hotels--along with the destruction of mangroves and other parts of nature--at the same time. Are the environmental laws still being enforced more rigorously now?

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Jeanine Kitchel's avatar

Hi Clarice, thank you. In everyday life you take it as it comes, and only on reflection, realize more, and possibly by writing things down. No. Tulum especially has suffered, as the pueblo vicinity is smaller than a Cancun or Playa del Carmen. Water quality is horrible, think only 60% of homes, facilities have proper sewer facilities which means 'flushing' into the ocean. So much more but won't go into it here. Tourism though = money, and as we all know, money talks.

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Clarice Dankers's avatar

That makes me really sad, but not surprised.

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Jeanine Kitchel's avatar

It is really sad. For so long it truly was paradise. Regulations, and following them, especially w. the environment-- so very important. The mayor of Puerto Morelos is being indicted for authorizing inflated contracts of 7 million pesos to family members for public lighting and embezzlement (at least it wasn't diverting sewers--a little black humor here). It does go on.Usually they are never charged,

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Clarice Dankers's avatar

That makes me really sad, but not surprised.

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Emese-Réka Fromm's avatar

We've also seen the development of the Riviera Maya, the changes it brought to the coast. The mangrove fillings sadden me the most, but the whole coast is so changed now, I find it hard to enjoy it :( ... You guys lived there at the right time though; even though you've seen the changes, you've lived through the best time of Puerto Morelos and the coast.

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Jeanine Kitchel's avatar

PS, thanks for restack, Emese!

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Jeanine Kitchel's avatar

True. And I'm not sure if every neat place to go to is not in flux right now, but they all might be, Emese. Another reader wrote that Tenerife was divine in the 80s, but changes, corruption, the regular factors, have forever changed it. So many on our planet Earth, and now FOMO and also more expendable (for some ) income = travel. Europe's main cities now sound bonkers. Shazam.

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Emese-Réka Fromm's avatar

Unfortunately, this seems to be true :(

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