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Claire Polders's avatar

The pretending-not-to-understand trick is universal and works everywhere in the world. But I would have enjoyed reading what the diminutive sorceress had in store for you!

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Jeanine Kitchel's avatar

I was too scared she might burst my high! We were 2 days into our new life and I didn’t need any maligners putting negative thoughts my way. I’ve seen my share of psychics and held my own countenance on spiritual matters by that time.

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Clarice Dankers's avatar

I understand that and think you made the right choice!

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Holly Starley's avatar

I thought this too, Claire. But I totally understand your choice, Jeanine. :)

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Paulette Bodeman's avatar

So cool to learn about this magical place filled with sorcerers, brujas and curanderos. It's interesting to see how indigenous cultures integrated Catholic ritual and saints into the local belief system.

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Jeanine Kitchel's avatar

Thanks Paulette. Yes, it really is amazing how they managed to do that. Pretty ingenious.

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Daniel Catena's avatar

Way to keep your cool when a witch approaches you! Catameco sounds like an intriguing visit, but I'll pass in March. Thanks for sharing this insightful post, Jeanine.

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Jeanine Kitchel's avatar

Thanks Daniel!

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Clarice Dankers's avatar

This is fascinating, Jeanine! I've never heard of Catemaco before, but I believe (hope?) that there are many areas in more isolated parts of Mexico where people still retain knowledge of herbs and a connection to the spirit that animates all of life. (I still remember reading the Castaneda books in the '70s and the influence they had on many of us.) And the mixture of traditional beliefs with Catholicism is a fascinating topic all on its own.

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Jeanine Kitchel's avatar

Carlos Castenada! He was my first entry into Mexican/spiritual mysticism. We must be on the same page somehow, b/c Chap 22 (this week's post) is on the books that 'led me' to Mexico. Kind of a prequel to my obsession, both travel wise and literary, with Mexico and Latin Am literature (2nd part of my double major in college) and the bookstore plan. Castenada's works were great. Always loved that dusk-time thing--how it was the entry between worlds. I met a very cultured savvy woman from CDMX who came into the shop years ago. Her daughter lived in PM and she'd join the daughter in trips to the store. She'd sit in the metaphysical section (one of our few chairs) and hold court. She was that type of person. She told me she'd met Castenada. It blew my mind b/c my obsession with him, decades later, had still not gone away. Thanks for bringing him up!!! He's in the first pp of this week's post. (and the following week is the Sweetgrass post--shazam, Clarice).

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Clarice Dankers's avatar

What great synchronicities! I am really looking forward to both of your upcoming posts.

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Jeanine Kitchel's avatar

Thanks! I had another synchronicity I mention in this week’s post that was a bit of a mind blower. Maybe t’is the season of coincidence!!

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Holly Starley's avatar

Thanks for adding a new spot I’d love to my visit to my ever-growing long list! 😁

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Marco & Sabrina's avatar

Ah the porous line between magic and religion! Really enjoyrd this, Jeanine and reading it spurs us to revisit the Yucatan as we never made it to Quintana Roo

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Jeanine Kitchel's avatar

Actually, Catemaco is in state of Veracruz. It’s a beautiful region, coffee growing, so super lush. You’d enjoy it. Mexico simply has so much to offer!

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Marco & Sabrina's avatar

Aha! Sounds wonderful, Jeanine!

Happy to stay clear of the brujas,regardless

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Skylar Renslow's avatar

wow, super fascinating! that picture in front of the church in Catemaco is awesome

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Jeanine Kitchel's avatar

Thanks Sylar!

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Jennifer Silva Redmond's avatar

I'd forgotten reading about Catemaco. So fascinating. I never visited but now I definitely want to!

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Jeanine Kitchel's avatar

Thanks Jennifer. It’s so beautiful up there. The lake was gorgeous.

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Jennifer Silva Redmond's avatar

I'd love to see it. I haven't spent much time on the mainland as you know. But there's still time to return.

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Nadine's avatar

I was waiting for this! I knew you'd have something wonderful to say. Those banana, coffee, and mango trees sound incredible, I could use some of that vegetation here in Mexico City!

Thank you for sharing the info about the cultural mix and male witches in the Catemaco area, new news to me

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Jeanine Kitchel's avatar

So glad you liked it, Nadine! I think it's fascinating that it was a little island to itself--till the railroad came to town, and still no roads! And that it was a place of refuge. There are so many many fascinating places in Mexico, each with such a unique story. The male-female brujo/bruja thing was interesting.

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Nadine's avatar

Literally and therefore metaphorically isolated! Sounds like somewhere I might like to live haha!

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Mikel K Miller's avatar

This is a fascinating article, Jeanine. I had no idea about this place or the people or culture.

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Jeanine Kitchel's avatar

Thanks Mikel. Mexico is such a huge country and there are so many interesting cool places to go. Driving through for a few years was a good way for us to catch some of them.

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Jeanine Kitchel's avatar

Thanks for restack Daniel.

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Jim Brown's avatar

Is it safe to bring my cat?

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Jeanine Kitchel's avatar

We brought Max, our kitten at the time. Left him in the hotel room alone and he did seem a little freaked out when we got back--but he wouldn't talk!!

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Nadine's avatar

Did you fly him over or drive? Always been curious if I had to leave Mexico how I would take the kitties...

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Jeanine Kitchel's avatar

Drove Nadine. And we brought Max. Stayed at a great older hotel near or on square and he was fine when we went for dinner. We drove first few years as we’d stop in Santa Fe and visit BFF and shop for more used books as they had gads of spiritual stuff. It got expensive to drive, hotels, gas, finally flew.

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Mike Leavy's avatar

Welp, Catemaco is now a must-see destination for me. My to-do list thanks you.

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Jeanine Kitchel's avatar

Thanks for reading Mike! It's a cool little place.

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Brian Overcast's avatar

Enjoyed your anti-climatic retelling of your encuentro with a bruja! We staying a couple nights years ago on the lake, such a peaceful place. It was hot and humid the first day and then a northerner blew, I mean BLEW in much cooler weather, apparently quite common in that part of Mexico.

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Jeanine Kitchel's avatar

It was anti-climatic, just the way I wanted it. I was more superstitious then than now, and I truly didn't want any bad ju-ju--not yet, haha. I've always been a student of the mystic, and have always done my own readings, mostly astrology, tarot. I studied palmistry and numerology, even Theosophy, and admire I Ching, but the others rose to the top. At one time I wrote an astrology column for an alternative paper in Mendocino County, CA, titled "Stars in Your Eyes," by June Gemini.

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