This reminded me of our first New Year's Eve in Mexico. We had rented an apt for Russel's mom and kept it an extra day after she returned to San Diego, and we went out to walk the city and enjoy the festivities. It was fairly quiet in town and when we returned. Then the partying started after midnight and continued until dawn, at a small bar right around the corner!
Your hotel story had me laughing - I completely understand those thin-wall nightmares from my own travels! But what really grabbed me was how you connected that real-life drama with the fascinating Maya history bits. It was interesting to read the Maya "collapse" from your perspective. Really makes me want to dig deeper into those stories myself. I look forward to diving into more of your content this year, Jeanine! ❤️
Thanks! Those bits that happen, you just have to laugh! Right? Anyway on the Maya collapse- I had never thought about what Everton said, though I DID know that Chichen Itza and Uxmal (and eventually Mayapan which was a late bloomer) all happened long after 900- CE, the ‘end’ of their Classic Period, I also knew the southern majesties were on the wane. Everton’s interview woke me up and got me researching (again) and I located the book on the Lowland Maya. Thanks for following along!
Thanks so much! Great! Tomorrow's is on an article I wrote years ago for a CDMX paper, The News, about a trip on the Rio Negro & Amazon River. I hope you catch it!
Being pulled over by anyone in a foreign country, even the cops, even when one is fluent enough in the local language... can be an anxious moment. But at night? No thanks.
I don't even want to drive at night when back in the States at this point in life. Nighttime complicates everything, starting with my vision.
On December 26th, we were pulled over by state police leaving Q-Roo for a road trip to Campeche. They went through many of our bags and filmed the whole thing (or pretended to at least.)
My take is that they were working our anxiety software to see if we'd give them money to "just let us go." But... we know better. We had no contraband and no reason to worry. Our patience and smiles eventually frustrated the lead cop and he walked away.
Worth mentioning: A younger version of me would have faulted "these dirty cops" for doing this sort of thing, but now I know how little money they make. If they can pressure a situation for someone to volunteer a "tip," that means they can better provide for their families. I get it. The problem is how little they're paid, and I also understand that it may be more complicated than simply paying them more money. It's not my area of expertise.
I'm only illustrating that most of us will never know how scary the authorities can seem, especially in the dark. And they're the least of anyone's concerns at night, which is true in most of the world.
You hit the nail on the head, Damon. (and sorry to hear about that scary excursion into hell enroute to Campeche). Night time is Not the right time. It makes things scarier. It's always mini-panic time when they pull you over, or major, dependiente. And you're right, sometimes faking you do not speak the language is better, but if you have MX plates, out of luck there, and not a rental. When they start going through your possessions, it's awful. We were enroute to Uxmal w/ a friend at Christmas a while back and had a bottle of champagne in the trunk. The military (brown uniforms?) pulled us over and the teenager soldier who was told to do the go-through pulled the bottle out and took it to the jefe.It was corked and in trunk. There was a discussion (he was really scary looking) and finally let it go and us go. True too about the $ thing for police. They make so little, our neighbor told us they almost 'have to' get a bribe to put food on their table. So weird.Oh, and he told us there's a kickback to the captain on the bribe.
I love the photo tip: find 6 different ways to photograph something. Also, I’m glad nothing happened to you and Paul in the hotel! In Colombia there’s always a chance of loud neighbors and it’s hard when they want to blast loud music. Great read as always!
Thanks Daniel. In Mexico like Colombia I’m sure if you keep to yourselves in odd situations you’ll do okay. Yes, Everton is amazing. The Maya book, all b/w is something.
Here's a tip for driving at night on two-lane roads in Mexico. Let a bus pass you and then stay on his tail. Those drivers know the road and will clear the way for you. I've done it many a night all over Mexico. Beats lying awake because of the partiers next door!
Just can’t do it. Hwy 307 has some horrific accidents. Two friends, separate collisions, got nailed, one hit a cow. He’d been an engineer-no mas. She walked with terrible limp ever since.
Yes, it certainly caught that turquoise quality. Not as clear today of course, but it was one of the driving forces, that beauty, that propelled us to the Mx Caribbean, Marlo.
Perhaps because: "Facts that go unreported do not exist if no one is there to see, to write, to take a photograph, it is as if these facts have never occurred, this suffering has no importance, no place in history. Because history exists only if someone relates it," I need to photograph everything I experience, no matter how mundane?
At least the Maya left examples of their histories carved in stone, readable once the code was broken. And it's such a young 'science' of discovery vs. the Egyptian and MidEast civilizations. But 'tis true- that old tree falling in the forest adage. Just think what has NOT been recorded. Everton is so cool. Truly something.
This reminded me of our first New Year's Eve in Mexico. We had rented an apt for Russel's mom and kept it an extra day after she returned to San Diego, and we went out to walk the city and enjoy the festivities. It was fairly quiet in town and when we returned. Then the partying started after midnight and continued until dawn, at a small bar right around the corner!
Partying is a national pastime! Even earplugs don't do the trick, haha. Roll with the punches, no?
Your hotel story had me laughing - I completely understand those thin-wall nightmares from my own travels! But what really grabbed me was how you connected that real-life drama with the fascinating Maya history bits. It was interesting to read the Maya "collapse" from your perspective. Really makes me want to dig deeper into those stories myself. I look forward to diving into more of your content this year, Jeanine! ❤️
Thanks! Those bits that happen, you just have to laugh! Right? Anyway on the Maya collapse- I had never thought about what Everton said, though I DID know that Chichen Itza and Uxmal (and eventually Mayapan which was a late bloomer) all happened long after 900- CE, the ‘end’ of their Classic Period, I also knew the southern majesties were on the wane. Everton’s interview woke me up and got me researching (again) and I located the book on the Lowland Maya. Thanks for following along!
Thanks so much! Great! Tomorrow's is on an article I wrote years ago for a CDMX paper, The News, about a trip on the Rio Negro & Amazon River. I hope you catch it!
Being pulled over by anyone in a foreign country, even the cops, even when one is fluent enough in the local language... can be an anxious moment. But at night? No thanks.
I don't even want to drive at night when back in the States at this point in life. Nighttime complicates everything, starting with my vision.
On December 26th, we were pulled over by state police leaving Q-Roo for a road trip to Campeche. They went through many of our bags and filmed the whole thing (or pretended to at least.)
My take is that they were working our anxiety software to see if we'd give them money to "just let us go." But... we know better. We had no contraband and no reason to worry. Our patience and smiles eventually frustrated the lead cop and he walked away.
Worth mentioning: A younger version of me would have faulted "these dirty cops" for doing this sort of thing, but now I know how little money they make. If they can pressure a situation for someone to volunteer a "tip," that means they can better provide for their families. I get it. The problem is how little they're paid, and I also understand that it may be more complicated than simply paying them more money. It's not my area of expertise.
I'm only illustrating that most of us will never know how scary the authorities can seem, especially in the dark. And they're the least of anyone's concerns at night, which is true in most of the world.
You hit the nail on the head, Damon. (and sorry to hear about that scary excursion into hell enroute to Campeche). Night time is Not the right time. It makes things scarier. It's always mini-panic time when they pull you over, or major, dependiente. And you're right, sometimes faking you do not speak the language is better, but if you have MX plates, out of luck there, and not a rental. When they start going through your possessions, it's awful. We were enroute to Uxmal w/ a friend at Christmas a while back and had a bottle of champagne in the trunk. The military (brown uniforms?) pulled us over and the teenager soldier who was told to do the go-through pulled the bottle out and took it to the jefe.It was corked and in trunk. There was a discussion (he was really scary looking) and finally let it go and us go. True too about the $ thing for police. They make so little, our neighbor told us they almost 'have to' get a bribe to put food on their table. So weird.Oh, and he told us there's a kickback to the captain on the bribe.
Sounds like a great trip!
Oooh thank you — I’m going to look for this book!
MacDuff Everton's or Maya Lowlands book? (very welcome btw).
I also avoid driving at night, at least cross-country. Maybe I'll try Mr. Overcast's suggestion of following a bus some time 😆.
That photo of The Nunnery Quadrangle is stunning - thanks for including it!
Everton's photos are something else. I like that he works in b/w a lot.
I love the photo tip: find 6 different ways to photograph something. Also, I’m glad nothing happened to you and Paul in the hotel! In Colombia there’s always a chance of loud neighbors and it’s hard when they want to blast loud music. Great read as always!
Thanks Daniel. In Mexico like Colombia I’m sure if you keep to yourselves in odd situations you’ll do okay. Yes, Everton is amazing. The Maya book, all b/w is something.
Another fascinating read, Jeanine. Love hearing about more of your adventures and learning about MacDuff Everton.
Thanks Ruth! Everton is something. Rather an icon in Puerto Morelos.
Here's a tip for driving at night on two-lane roads in Mexico. Let a bus pass you and then stay on his tail. Those drivers know the road and will clear the way for you. I've done it many a night all over Mexico. Beats lying awake because of the partiers next door!
Just can’t do it. Hwy 307 has some horrific accidents. Two friends, separate collisions, got nailed, one hit a cow. He’d been an engineer-no mas. She walked with terrible limp ever since.
That's too bad, I sure don't blame anyone for not driving at night on the libres.
That water color of Puerto Morelos is beautiful! It really captures the true beauty of your Mexican home.
Yes, it certainly caught that turquoise quality. Not as clear today of course, but it was one of the driving forces, that beauty, that propelled us to the Mx Caribbean, Marlo.
Good article, Jeanine. Yes, never drive after dark in Mexico if you can avoid it, especially on two-lane roads. Best wishes for the new year!
Thanks Mikel!! Yes - never ever ever! And Happy New Year to you and Maria!!
Perhaps because: "Facts that go unreported do not exist if no one is there to see, to write, to take a photograph, it is as if these facts have never occurred, this suffering has no importance, no place in history. Because history exists only if someone relates it," I need to photograph everything I experience, no matter how mundane?
At least the Maya left examples of their histories carved in stone, readable once the code was broken. And it's such a young 'science' of discovery vs. the Egyptian and MidEast civilizations. But 'tis true- that old tree falling in the forest adage. Just think what has NOT been recorded. Everton is so cool. Truly something.
Thank goodness they did. If only we could decode all the lost languages like Zapotec too!
Thanks for the restack, Denise!
Thanks for restack Daniel!
Thanks Pamela, for restack!
Thanks for the restack, Daniel!